Bad's Buggy

[badzook]

Starting a new thread to continue the posts that were in the pics and video section... Thanks xeon, sorry 'bout that...
badzook

[badzook]

Hey Rod, you sure you want to gear that thing so deep if you're sizing up the engine? 5.12's with 35's is gonna be turning 3000 rpms at 60 mph in the top gear (1 to 1). not sure how big an engine you were thinking but assuming it's a 6 cyl (not sure if you can fit an 8 in there) that's the top end of the power band on most of the engines. i know it's mainly a toy and gas milage isn't a major concern but it's always nice to have at least a little bit of comfort when cruising down the highway to the next trail. for the price of regearing you might want to consider something like the tera low kit that's out there for the jeep. I believe i've seen a 6:1 low range offered for the zuk. go wheeling in overdrive all the time :lol: and IIRC the zuk isn't 1 to 1 in high range? so dropping in some t-case gears would be the same as doing the diffs only you only do it once instead of front and rear. obviously there's pros and cons to this, and i know you mentioned that your stock axles were basically maxed out strength wise so maybe you were planning on a swap anyway. just something else to throw into the equation. lol. i love planning big projects!




Well,

This is where I'm at right now....

The engine I'm looking at is a Tracker 1.8 L 8V instead that 1.3L . It's not a huge difference but still better. 63 HP to 98 HP . That's about 30% better.. I'm looking to get a donor rig with Power Steering. and A/C to make an On Board Air Compressor and add P/S along with the harnesses and processor it's not a mass airflow set up but rather just a Map & o2. So I can run a larger cam and Header ( Which I have already ) ( I am actually negotiating a deal right now ) ...

With the gearing, I was thinking of going with 4.63 R&P but, the Tracker comes with a 5.12 Stock Gears that are a bolt in application and I can go with Detroit EZ Lockers since they are a cheap and easy to install.

My Current T/C is a GRS I at 4.16.1 It has a reduction or 12.1 % Hi and 83.6% Low over stock gearing. This set-up is calculated to run the 32" tires I have now on the street. The wheel and tire combo is really very light and not as heavy as they look... It's just that the 1.3 won't push them on the uphills.. Heck that 1.3 can't push a Bone Stock Sammy Uphills..... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I'm thinking the 5.12's are a little low but on the highway the 32's will compensate for them.... Right now I can easily do 70 mph downhill but I can't get the power I need to go up-hill.. So if it drops to 60 downhill it's no big deal. The extra power from the 1.8L should get me going up-hills..

All of this should be okay on the stock axles so long as I don't Hammer on it too much... If I'm wrong I'll have to go with Toyota axles or something.

I really want to stay with Suzuki running gear for now as we do have emissions issues coming up real soon.. And If I stay close to stock I should be able to get past all of that.

I don't want to go to a reconstructed title right now.. It's a real PITA to get..

Anyhow what do you think?? Any ideas? :?: :idea:

badzook.



hmmm, so you're turning what now? 3.73's with a 1.58 to 1 high range? what's your overdrive ratio?

so let's see, right now you're turning about 3400 rpms at 55 mph in 4th gear? sound about right? stock t-case gearing with 3.73's and 27" tires turns about 3575 so you're a little under geared at the moment.

with 5.12's you're looking at 4670 rpms at the same speed and gear. that's a huge jump. i know most 4 cylinders like the higher rpms but what's the rev limiter set to on the 1.8? seems to me like that's half a second away from throwing a rod. even the 4.63's would be turning ~4200. guess we need to know where the power band for the 1.8 is. if it were me, i would try just the engine swap for the moment and see if the extra half a liter helps out with the hills. the cam and the header might be all you really need, maybe some free flowing exhaust. then maybe save the gear/axle swap for when you decide to run the bigger tires. i just think that those gears are really going to limit your top speed. instead of helping the engine push through the hill, they're gonna drag it down and while you'll have plenty of torque, it's still gonna be at 50 mph because you're gonna starting hitting the rev limiters. just my $.02 one other thing you might look into is adding an inertia ring to the flywheel while you're swapping engines. from what i've read it's one of the best mods you can add to a 4 banger if you like playing on the rocks.

i had thought about the 2.5L as well, but the problem there is the weak drive train. i don't know how strong the zuk's tranny is but the Ax-5 behind the 2.5 isn't known for it's strength. you can adapt the 2.5 to several different trannies, but nothing besides the Ax-5 and the stock auto will bolt up as far as i know so you'd just be adding to the cost for minimal gains. granted, who wouldn't want an SM420 in their rig, but sometimes it's just not worth the time and money to get it. also, i don't know about mating the zuk's t-case to whatever tranny you pick and that means either using a different case and ditching the upgraded low range or another specialty adaptor to buy. then there's the length considerations, inspection/emissions and all the rest. in the end you'd probably spend upward of 1K in adaptors or upgrades to get the same strength and only end up with ~30 extra ponies and that assumes you get a newer 2.5. $100 for every 3 HP gained isn't exactly good economics. anyway, justin's right, we should move this to the proper forum and retitle it "Rod's Resurrection"

:lol:

[badzook]

sentinal 02

The zook has a "divorced t/c so I could bolt in just about any engine & trans combo that fits and have a driveshaft built to mate it up.. I just thought since I don't have the time patience to fab up all of the necessary parts to do that , I would look for a drop in application and go with that...


As far as the gearing goes you're right. It was spot on just underpowered... I think I will stick with what I have right now and try the new engine first.. I've been working on the teardown and man it's one helluva lot of work.... They built this thing to stay together......

Looks like a couple of weeks at least...

badzook

[sentinal02]

sentinal 02

The zook has a "divorced t/c so I could bolt in just about any engine & trans combo that fits and have a driveshaft built to mate it up.. I just thought since I don't have the time patience to fab up all of the necessary parts to do that , I would look for a drop in application and go with that...


As far as the gearing goes you're right. It was spot on just underpowered... I think I will stick with what I have right now and try the new engine first.. I've been working on the teardown and man it's one helluva lot of work.... They built this thing to stay together......

Looks like a couple of weeks at least...

badzook

hmm, that does make things a little easier when picking an engine. i wonder if the 1.8 will bolt to any of the stronger chevy transmissions.

if you want a hand stripping it down let me know. I'm always off on the weekends.

[badzook]

sentinal02,

Thanks, I'll keep it in mind.. I have to work the next two weekends so far...bummer....

For right now, it's just a few hours here and there...

badzook

[njedgexj]

hey badzook if you did need a hand with welding and whatnot im i can help...my machine is not a 220 one tho...just 120 i have a 30 amp line for it in my garage...maybe someone has a larger machine that they can bring up to you...if not i can bring mine...its up to you...i can do 3/16 with mig and 5/16 flux core in a single pass...

[badzook]

hey badzook if you did need a hand with welding and whatnot im i can help...my machine is not a 220 one tho...just 120 i have a 30 amp line for it in my garage...maybe someone has a larger machine that they can bring up to you...if not i can bring mine...its up to you...i can do 3/16 with mig and 5/16 flux core in a single pass...


I have to get the frame first and prep it before I address that part.
That sounds great.. I'll keep it in mind. Thank You.
badzook

[badzook]

Here is the latest on the Reframe Project.. Removed the Top, Doors, Bumpers, Windshield etc... Just trying to lighten up the tub a little before removing it...

Even though it didn't look too bad. The twisted part of the frame caused a great deal of difficulty in removing the Bumper and Body mounting bolts on the Pass Side Front ..I had to cut some of them as they were bent.

Somehow I managed to get mud inside the tub everywhere...LOL

No rust found anywhere yet.... Not bad for a Northeast Rig... I'm thinking about Rino Lining for the inside tub... and Water Resistant Racing seats....

That Plastic crate makes a pretty good seat to drive it around with :lol: Just the right height...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid160/pc3418def4d4fe1b8f0b1db3f36844980/f4ef5b32.jpg

8)

badzook

[sentinal02]

Lining the interior was the first mod i did to the jeep and it has been worth every penny. the herc has held up great, though i need to do a little touch up after 2 years. keep an eye on autozone and pep boys, etc. they run specials on the herculiner kits. much cheaper than rhino liner and it holds up nicely. you're already halfway there with the tub stripped, i'd definitely throw it in.

[XEON]

Hows the buggy going Rod? Got any updated pics?